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01 December 2025

23 October Storms and scares

Tropical storm Melissa is passing 300nm north of us and forecast to strengthen to a major hurricane affecting Jamaica in the next few days. We are safe in our hurricane hole despite the wind blowing hard. Our anchor is set rock solid in 10 metres of water; it’s been tested by strong winds since we arrived ten days ago.

Whilst our anchor was set firmly the catamaran anchored in front of us wasn’t. At 2.30am we were woken by soft voices close to our bedroom window at the back of the boat. We looked out to find the bow of a catamaran less than a metre behind our stern with a man and woman flailing with fenders. They were talking in whispers, trying not to wake us. Not far enough behind them is a dangerous rocky shore. What the hell!

How had they got so close behind without hitting us?

We swung immediately into action mode. Clothes on, lights on, engine on, instruments on, two way radio headsets on. On deck we found that the catamaran’s anchor chain was directly under our hull. Of course, the wind is blowing 20 knots plus, but at least there’s no rain.

David suggests that they release their chain snubber to allow them to drop back away from us but the owners are French and there’s a language difficulty. Hand signals and pointing help. They seem to have no idea of what to do so David takes command.

Our plan is to motor forward, lifting our chain allowing them to also drive forward and retrieve their chain and anchor. That was the plan until I’d pulled up 15m of our chain and find their anchor appear at the surface firmly hooked on our chain. I couldn’t free it, but with superhuman strength David leans over the bow and holds their 25kg anchor up while I lower our chain to free the tangle. We return to motoring forward being aware there is another innocent yacht now on our beam.

We lift another 15m of chain and finally turn to see the offending catamaran is turning and motoring away. They’re gone and we are safe.

Fortunately we didn’t have to lift our anchor off the seabed. Trusting it is still hard set, we let out the anchor chain to find we are now in shallower water and at least10m further back than we were. The only conclusion is that when their anchor snagged our chain they dragged us backwards. For now we are okay, we’ll re-anchor in daylight.

The catamaran disappears into the night and David sits in the cockpit until dawn monitoring our position. He doesn’t want us to drag onto the shore.

Next morning we’re tired, having breakfast when Frenchman and woman arrive in their dinghy. I thought they might have come check for any damage and to apologise, but no. They have come back to find their anchor and chain that they dumped! Apparently the skipper cut the line and let them go instead of trying to lift them. Now we going to help them find their anchor.


It takes until early afternoon. Their dinghy is tied to our stern while the skipper dives searching the sea bed ahead and around us. At last he surfaces with a line attached to the anchor under our bow. This tells us that they must only have had 30m of chain out in 10m depth (the standard ratio is 5:1 scope). Back in the dinghy Gwen and his girlfriend Maria try to haul it up and into their dinghy. When this doesn’t work David and I haul on the line to lift from our deck, mostly David heaving 25kgs plus chain and me tailing the line. We’re able to lower it into their dinghy leaving them to hand haul the remaining chain into their boat. When that is done they wave adios, depart and we are finally able to re-anchor back where we were a day ago.

The end of the story is Gwen and Maria invited us for drinks aboard Para Di of Guadeloupe as a thank you for all our help. It was entente cordiale with wine, Brittany galettes and Gwen playing his saxophone and accordion.

14 October Arrival Curacao

Not what you want. On the day we have to leave Bonaire, because we’d reached 90 limit on our visitor visas, there is no wind to sail. Instead we motor in flat seas and reach Spanish Water early afternoon.

In the blurb Curacao is noted as ‘hurricane free’ and then Spanish Water as an ideal ‘hurricane hole’? Bit of a dichotomy there. The bay is reached through a long channel so there’s no exposure to swell making it a popular spot for yachts to spend hurricane season. The designated anchor zones are busy and it takes a while to find a spot that satisfies being outside the channel and with swinging room to the boats around us, but we do.
Willemstad swing bridge




A change this year is a new Customs and Immigration office has been built and opened next to the channel dock, easily accessible by dinghy. However, to pay our harbour master dues we still needed to take a bus into Willemstad. We’ve been before so knew to walk over the swing bridge and into the controlled dock area under the high road bridge. It was quick, a simple U$25 fee for 3 months. We are aiming to leave as soon as we have a favourable and safe window to allow us to sail back to the north east Caribbean.
Greenpeace visiting Curacao


12 October Bonaire carnival

This weekend was the annual Bonaire regatta and carnival; a weekend yacht racing, parades along the promenade, live bands and ending with a massive pool party on Sunday afternoon.




Guest boats arrived from Curacao from Friday evening and we noted that there were many more power boats with families on board than there were sailing boats. The ratio was about 2:1.

The sailing club lasers and the visiting yachts raced around the cans on Saturday and Sunday morning. The motor homers partied all weekend.

Our permitted 90 day visit to Bonaire ends tomorrow, there’s no way to easily extend our visit, and we would like to very much, so we have to go to Customs and Immigration to clear out.

Oh my! First we had to find a path through the giant pool party. Here the boats and moored in a line enclosing a swim area between them and the promenade. Everyone is in bathers and has a blow up flamingo, or ring, or chair to float and sip and the mandatory rum cocktail.

In the small Customs & Immigration office it is carnage. The party spills inside as those who are sailing or motoring back to Curacao are also completing paperwork. The craziness is that everyone departing by boat has to present themselves with their passport to the officer and some boats have misplaced their crew in the melee. It’s phone calls, crowd scanning and many wet people in their swimming costumes running in and out.

David and I adopt the stoic attitude. We don’t have any other option and patiently wait for our turn. Checking in took 10 minutes. Checking out takes an hour.

Before cycling back to the marina we have to visit the Brewery for a last sunset beer and to reflect on what a great time we’ve had here. Many dives, hot and dry, no hurricanes and superb restaurants. I think we’ll be back.


5 October Back in Bonaire

I’m back on board! Back in the warm air of Bonaire. For David there were boat presents and Christmas mince pies, for me the joy of being home.

This weekend was the annual swim out to Klein Bonaire island and back: a distance of about 1 ½ miles. At 8am the first race for competitive swimmers begins. Once they have completed the course it is time for the families and recreational swimmers to take a more leisurely approach where it’s all about taking part. We were told that there were more than a thousand participants in this event.






28 September English Autumn

It’s my last weekend in Oxfordshire, staying with my best friend forever, and as the weather cools from summer into autumn our early morning dog walks are beautiful in the mist.






28 November 2025

20 September Family time

 My visit home is going to fast! Today I drove up to Sheffield to see my niece Gemma, her husband Adam and my great nephews Jacob and Arlo. With sister Julie and 4 dogs also there it was lively.




10 September Amsterdam

Because travelling from Bonaire to London I have to change planes in Amsterdam I took the opportunity to take a city mini break and immerse myself in art and culture. Three packed days of canal boat cruise, old masters, Van Gogh, modern art, strolling along the canals and cycling in the park.

canals
bicycles

dogs and bicycles

Rembrandts house

contemporary art

Van Gogh



04 September 2025

4 September The good life

We've been in Bonaire for 6 weeks and can declare it's very good (for us). We elected to take a place in the marina as opposed to taking a mooring ball for the convenience of being able to step off the boat, shore power and water. Polly has a garden for supervised walks in the evening too.

Our reason to pick this island for hurricane season was twofold; first it sits on the southern edge of the hurricane zone and, secondly, it has great, easy access diving. Using our dinghy we load up the kit and pootle along the coastline or a short hop across to Klein Bonaire, an uninhabited low lying island, with less visited sites. And we've seen a good variety of creatures, although no big stuff, no sharks or mantas. It is possible I've seen sharks here before and on a previous visit a manta, but this isn't current diving. It's very gentle stuff with excellent visibility. We have seen turtles, a spotted eagle ray hunting for food through the coral heads, the biggest spiny lobster we've ever seen (Bonaire is a no take marine park), a 20cm red hairy frog fish and many, many more usual suspects though we're still looking for an elusive seahorse. I don't have an underwater camera now so all the following images are sourced from the web.

spotted eagle ray

red hairy frogfish

spiny lobster

red lipped blennie

When we're not diving we find other ways to take our exercise, essential when we are eating so well, either on board or at one many excellent restaurants. Sometimes there's an early morning walk along the promenade to the centre of Kralendijk before it gets too hot, or a cycle ride to the supermarket on the dedicated cycle paths. Bonaire suits us so well that we're considering coming back next year.

It's safe too. I feel comfortable leaving David and Polly on their own while I take a trip home :) leaving in a couple of days' time and back at the end of the month.

flip flop tree

Harbour Village marina

walkies

gardening leave

light refreshment at the Brewery






28 August 2025

14 July Arrival Bonaire

I can declare the weather forecast was wildly inaccurate. Our estimated 2 ½ day trip took 3 ¼ days due to a lot less wind. Fifteen gusting 20 knots were more 10 gusting 14 knots from behind, but clear skies and a very relaxed sail. We had dolphins swimming faster than we were moving, but it was easy to sleep on your off watch. No hardship whatsoever. A flying fish landed on deck and made a tasty snack for the ship's cat.

Our fastest sail of the trip was after we'd turned the southern point of the island and coming up the east coast to Kralendijk. Typical!

Our first observation is the number of new buildings extending along the shoreline – more hotels, more villas. Next a very warm welcome in the marina. To preserve the seabed anchoring is forbidden anywhere around the island. You can either take a mooring or go in the marina. It's a small marina, part of a hotel complex, 60 berths total and most of those are local and commercial boats. We went on the wait list four months ago and only got confirmation of our place two weeks ago. Our dock is the one with visitor boats with owners living on board – just 6 of the 30 boats.

Safely tied alongside first order when arriving in a new country is to check in. We pull out our folding bikes from the garage and cycle to Customs and Immigration, a mile+ south of the marina near the cruise terminal. It feels so good to be here as we pedal along the seafront promenade. We do Customs first but have to come back to complete Immigration when the officer is back from the airport. It's easy and it's friendly. As a consequence of UK leaving the EU we can only stay for 90 days. American passport holders have 6 months.

a gift from Neptune
land ahoy!


10 July Checked out from Guadeloupe

Bonaire is beckoning. We decided not to go to Grenada this year. We've been there for the last three years and we feel like a change of scenery.

Bonaire is one of the Dutch ABC islands approximately 60 miles north of Columbia and is considered to be on the southern edge of the hurricane zone. To date has never been hit by a hurricane. The big draw for us is the diving, easy diving in warm, clear, current free water and multiple dive sites that can be reached by dinghy. This will be our third visit on Jackster; October 2009 on our way to the Panama Canal, 2018 post circumnavigation on our way to dive the western Caribbean and now 2025 hurricane season. We'll likely head back to NE Caribbean later in the year.

So today we've done a final check on the hull and propeller and gone ashore to clear out, say au revoir to friends. If the forecasts are right the 450nm passage should take us 2 and a half days. If we leave pre dawn tomorrow we estimate to arrive there pre sunset on 13th, take a mooring overnight and move into the marina next morning. That's the plan.