The missionaries came to the Cook Islands towards end of the 19th century and converted the people to Protestants. Today the Island Church of Rarotonga send a minister and his wife on a four year tour of duty. Religion and observation of the Sabbath is taken very seriously here. We were invited to join the congregation at the new church. The original church built by William Marsters from ship's timbers was sadly demolished and replaced by a modern plywood structure four years ago. It was a shame that no-one thought to preserve their unique heritage.
All the yachties were invited to the Sunday service and three boats went including us. Male guests were permitted to wear shorts but for local men it was long trousers and floral shirts. The dress code for ladies was a dress that covers the tops of ones arms and a hat. Everyone had bare feet except for two men who had shoes. The minister had highly polished leather shoes, long trousers, a bright blue shirt and garishly bright tie and a blazer embroidered with the church insignia. The pastor (also the Customs & Immigration officer) also had polished leather shoes and a cream suit which he wore with a dashingly bright tie. I wore a dress and the Panama hat David bought for me in Panama.
Each family has a line of pews. Ladies sit on the right hand side and the men on the left. This conducted in English but the hymns are sung in Maori. Mama Inano and her sister Sarah lead off the singing with full volume descant renditions. Sarah was right behind me and the volume was so loud it hurt my ears. It's odd that they sing in Maori this is strange because no-one on the island speaks Maori and they have to learn the hymns by sound without knowing what they are singing about. They also have to learn the tunes from the elders because there's no organ or piano accompaniment. Hymn practice to learn the words and music takes place at 7pm every Sunday evening led by Mama Inano and her sister Sarah.
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