Saturday 1 February From Koh Phuket to Koh Phayam

Over the last week we've travelled up the west coast of Thailand from Phuket island to Phayam island close to the border with Myanmar. The longest leg in one day was 44 miles so a leisurely pace.

On Sunday we were in Nai Harn in south Phuket and were able to join Kilkea and Sea Mist for coffee and croissants at the French bakery. The owner / baker is an engaging Frenchman, all very European, even the cockerels foraging under the tables had a Gallic strut. Next day was a short hop sail past Patong beach to Bang Tao Bay – four miles of white sand beach backed by swish five star resorts and only us and one other yacht. Tucked into the northern end of the beach we had good shelter and no swell to disturb our sleep.

It was an even shorter hop next day, four miles, to Nai Yang beach immediately south of the airport. There were more boats here, possibly because there are more restaurants ashore but we did roll a bit and four planes landed or departed an hour before dawn. The water is clear and warm which encouraged us to get in and scrub the growth off the waterline.

at Naval Wives' restaurant

Onwards again the following day to our first stop on mainland Thailand. Ban Thap Lamu reached a mile up the river is a small naval base, fishing port and base for fast boats and dive boats taking guests out to the Similan and Surin islands. Whilst no sea swell reached us the wash from the speed boats passing within a boat length of the hull is uncomfortable. Perhaps if we'd gone further up the river passed the quay we might have found a quieter spot but I doubt we would have escaped the mosquitoes which

appeared at dusk. On the plus side, we shared a nice meal at Naval wives' restaurant with Tahina, Kilkea and Sea Mist. 

On the grass outside a house we spotted this pet - a long nosed rabbit.   Anyone known the name of the breed?

From Ban Thap Lamu we covered the longest leg of our journey, the 44 miles under sail then motor as the wind died to nothing, to arrive at the delightful anchorage on the north east end of Koh Ra. Where BTL was noisy this is serene. Views from the cockpit were wooded Koh Ra one side and the wide estuary to the other. No restaurants, no swell and no mosquitoes. We'll come back here.

And finally we arrive in Koh Phayam which comes highly recommended by other cruisers. Imagine likened it to Bali twenty years ago. The online guide book calls it Koh Samui from thirty years ago. I call it laid back and delightful. With three anchorages around the island there is one for each wind direction. We opted to anchor off Aow Yai, three miles of sandy ibeach on the south side. There were four other boats here when we arrived, no jet skis, no long tail boats and on the island, no motor cars, only motorbikes. It feels like we're on

Aow Yai beach, Phayam

seven fishing rafted together off the headland

holiday! On this beach there are guest houses, good value restaurants and one smart with a dive shop. As I sit writing this is the cockpit I can see the Surin island thirty miles away. That's where we're heading next week, hopefully to dive.