6 – 13 February Sailing from Phuket to Sri Lanka

The forecast predicted light winds and a slow passage ahead of us for our passage from Phuket to Galle in Sri Lanka. What we got was champagne sailing conditions all the way.

When a northerly breeze came up on Monday afternoon we decided it was good to go. And good it was. We were able to switch off the engine before leaving the bay and we didn't have to switch it on again for seven days until we were twenty miles from Galle and in the wind shadow of the land mass. It was 12 to 15 knots on the beam, seas less than 1m swell and a full moon mid way. Champagne sailing conditions. I was able to hang out the washing to dry in the breeze and David and Polly caught a skipjack tuna.

adding an extra sail

preparing the cat-ch

As we approached the south west corner of Sri Lanka and sailed on to the continental shelf we were joined by a whale. David spotted the 'smoke', or water spout, a few hundred metres ahead of our bow. By the time I'd grabbed the camera we were alongside a 20m blue whale. The gentle giant came toward us and lifted its head no more than 50m away. I swear it looked at me. People have asked if we were worried about it coming to close and bumping the boat. We were far too excited to see this amazing animal to think about possible dangers. After taking a look at this strange new whale who was approaching him, our whale swam across our bow and swam around us for fifteen minutes before swimming away. The creature is so big that when it is on the surface it looks like the light blue mass of a reef.

Blue whales are regular visitors to these waters. I later learned they are a specific species, the Indian Ocean Pygmy Blue Whale.  Growing up to only 24m they are smaller than their North Atlantic cousins.

close encounter with a blue whale

An hour later we were joined by a large pod of spinner dolphins. We haven't enjoyed so much sea life since we were in the Pacific. SE Asia is an over fished desert in comparison.

We arrived into Galle bay just before midnight and anchored in Watering Point bay which is a mile from the harbour. It was lovely sleep all night and wake refreshed for our appointment with the clearance officials next day.

taking the navy for a ride

The process in Galle is for a yacht to anchor outside the harbour entrance and wait for the boys from the navy to visit, board and inspect for any stowaways or Tamil Tigers. If they deem we are not a threat to national security they accompany us in to the new marina where the cavalcade of health, immigration and customs officers were waiting. Welcome to Sri Lanka and the next adventure.

Galle's fort and lighthoue