6 October Mahajanga Harbour

15.42.91S 46.17.79E 5m LAT

Following our early departure from Maharamba after a sleepless night we arrived in Mahajanga early afternoon. The first thing you notice is the sea is red.

red sea

The north entrance channel is as shown on Navionics with the red and green markers in place.

We anchored south of the breakwater which gave us shelter from the ocean swell, close to a gas tanker which was tied stern to the breakwater and bow to a mooring with both anchors out. We'd been warned about the holding here to be 'like talcum powder'. The benefit of this spot is that there is a safe place to leave your dinghy while ashore. Dinghies and outboard motors have frequently been reported stolen in Mahajanga. A friend had theirs stolen during the night two weeks ago when it was tied alongside the mother ship and they were sleeping in the cockpit next to it. They may have been anchored off the main harbour which is further up the river.

harbour view

We took our dinghy to the smaller boat ramp in the north east corner, or inland end, of the breakwater, which is the HQ of Surveillance des Pecheurs (Fishing authority). David gave one of the policemen a ride out to their rib which they wanted to bring ashore and, in a return of kindness, they gave us a lift in to town.

When we came back loaded down with shopping and 100L of diesel at sunset our dinghy was happily waiting where we left it at the top of the boat ramp. The guys were so friendly and helpful they helped putting the dinghy back in the water and carrying our goodies. Giving a small 'gift' is appreciated and we feel they'll continue to help the yachties who follow.

We stayed overnight illuminated by the arc lights on the gas tanker, everything removable in the cockpit locked away and all lockers secured. There was only a light breeze and we sat to the strong current. There was a tidal range of 4.5m this night.

Next day we left on the last third of the ebbing current taking the southerly channel. The river is red because of soil erosion in the hinterland. The red water is visible from space: astronauts have commented that it looks like Madagascar is bleeding into the sea. It is. Deforestation for timber and agriculture has resulted in an estimated 110 tonnes of soil per acre loss per year. Mahajanga commercial harbour has been re-sited further towards the sea because the river is silting up. The southern buoyed channel is now approximately 5m shallower than shown on our charts.

Why is the soil red? According to my internet research it is laterite which is rich in iron oxide and bauxite, also found in southern Africa, India and Australia. A rock formed by the weathering of earlier rocks in wet, tropical conditions, ie it rusts on exposure to water and oxygen. It is a poor soil for farming.

It was slow sailing for the morning in light winds and then a motor 5 miles into the heart of Boeni Bay. This channel has not silted up and we had plenty of depth all the way in.