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04 September 2025

4 September The good life

We've been in Bonaire for 6 weeks and can declare it's very good (for us). We elected to take a place in the marina as opposed to taking a mooring ball for the convenience of being able to step off the boat, shore power and water. Polly has a garden for supervised walks in the evening too.

Our reason to pick this island for hurricane season was twofold; first it sits on the southern edge of the hurricane zone and, secondly, it has great, easy access diving. Using our dinghy we load up the kit and pootle along the coastline or a short hop across to Klein Bonaire, an uninhabited low lying island, with less visited sites. And we've seen a good variety of creatures, although no big stuff, no sharks or mantas. It is possible I've seen sharks here before and on a previous visit a manta, but this isn't current diving. It's very gentle stuff with excellent visibility. We have seen turtles, a spotted eagle ray hunting for food through the coral heads, the biggest spiny lobster we've ever seen (Bonaire is a no take marine park), a 20cm red hairy frog fish and many, many more usual suspects though we're still looking for an elusive seahorse. I don't have an underwater camera now so all the following images are sourced from the web.

spotted eagle ray

red hairy frogfish

spiny lobster

red lipped blennie

When we're not diving we find other ways to take our exercise, essential when we are eating so well, either on board or at one many excellent restaurants. Sometimes there's an early morning walk along the promenade to the centre of Kralendijk before it gets too hot, or a cycle ride to the supermarket on the dedicated cycle paths. Bonaire suits us so well that we're considering coming back next year.

It's safe too. I feel comfortable leaving David and Polly on their own while I take a trip home :) leaving in a couple of days' time and back at the end of the month.

flip flop tree

Harbour Village marina

walkies

gardening leave

light refreshment at the Brewery






28 August 2025

14 July Arrival Bonaire

I can declare the weather forecast was wildly inaccurate. Our estimated 2 ½ day trip took 3 ¼ days due to a lot less wind. Fifteen gusting 20 knots were more 10 gusting 14 knots from behind, but clear skies and a very relaxed sail. We had dolphins swimming faster than we were moving, but it was easy to sleep on your off watch. No hardship whatsoever. A flying fish landed on deck and made a tasty snack for the ship's cat.

Our fastest sail of the trip was after we'd turned the southern point of the island and coming up the east coast to Kralendijk. Typical!

Our first observation is the number of new buildings extending along the shoreline – more hotels, more villas. Next a very warm welcome in the marina. To preserve the seabed anchoring is forbidden anywhere around the island. You can either take a mooring or go in the marina. It's a small marina, part of a hotel complex, 60 berths total and most of those are local and commercial boats. We went on the wait list four months ago and only got confirmation of our place two weeks ago. Our dock is the one with visitor boats with owners living on board – just 6 of the 30 boats.

Safely tied alongside first order when arriving in a new country is to check in. We pull out our folding bikes from the garage and cycle to Customs and Immigration, a mile+ south of the marina near the cruise terminal. It feels so good to be here as we pedal along the seafront promenade. We do Customs first but have to come back to complete Immigration when the officer is back from the airport. It's easy and it's friendly. As a consequence of UK leaving the EU we can only stay for 90 days. American passport holders have 6 months.

a gift from Neptune
land ahoy!


10 July Checked out from Guadeloupe

Bonaire is beckoning. We decided not to go to Grenada this year. We've been there for the last three years and we feel like a change of scenery.

Bonaire is one of the Dutch ABC islands approximately 60 miles north of Columbia and is considered to be on the southern edge of the hurricane zone. To date has never been hit by a hurricane. The big draw for us is the diving, easy diving in warm, clear, current free water and multiple dive sites that can be reached by dinghy. This will be our third visit on Jackster; October 2009 on our way to the Panama Canal, 2018 post circumnavigation on our way to dive the western Caribbean and now 2025 hurricane season. We'll likely head back to NE Caribbean later in the year.

So today we've done a final check on the hull and propeller and gone ashore to clear out, say au revoir to friends. If the forecasts are right the 450nm passage should take us 2 and a half days. If we leave pre dawn tomorrow we estimate to arrive there pre sunset on 13th, take a mooring overnight and move into the marina next morning. That's the plan.


6 July Another broken line

We're now back in the Saints on a mooring. We came in from Pointe-a-Pitre yesterday afternoon to find many empty mooring balls. It's July, a month into official hurricane, and most boats have left for ports north and south so lots of choice for those still here. We'll be leaving the eastern Caribbean ourselves within the next week; we have booked a place in the marina in Bonaire from 14 July for three months.

low season

But, back to this afternoon...we're sitting down below watching the British Grand Prix. Outside there is the occasional gust of wind that snatches at the boats.

At an exciting point in the race there's a gust, a tug and bang! What??? We jump up, race on deck to find we are drifting away from where we should be. The mooring line has snapped! What is happening to us that lines keep breaking?

Action mode adopted. I move to the helm and turn on the engine. David goes forward to retrieve our mooring lines together with the snapped line and thimble which are still attached. Less boats around works in our favour as there is room to drift back without hitting another boat. David clears the potential propeller catching lines from the water. When he has recovered them I can steer us out of the mooring field to regroup and assess where we're going next.

The general rule is that shit happens at night. We got lucky today – on board and daylight. 

4 July Sails dropped, sails hoisted

We've left the marina and come out to the mooring balls on the other side of the channel to replace the old sail halyards with new. The positives of being on a mooring over being on a fixed dock is we will sit to wind which is a major advantage when working with the sails. As they are lowered they'll lie on the deck and as they're hoisted they won't be trying to wrap themselves around us and the rigging.

An hour before sunset the wind usually eases off so time to jump to action mode. We begin with the mizzen because it's shorter and the sail smaller while we hone our technique. Our technique is to unfurl and drop the sail, join the end of the old line to the new with a needle and strong thread and a wrap of tape (streamline to go through mast and pulleys without catching), pull the new line into position and detach the old, attach the new line onto the sail and hoist it aloft and furl.

Next afternoon we swapped out the main and genoa halyards and the replaced the old, used dinghy lift. The old lines, which we assume are the originals Amel fitted in 1997, all looked in good shape. However, so did the main last time we checked. Now we have peace mind ahead of the next ocean crossing...and exiting the channel between the reefs!


2 July New lines fitted

We sailed from the Saints back into the marina in Pointe-a-Pitre on Tuesday yesterday for a 2 night stay. There were a few butterflies in my stomach as we entered the channel, scene of so much stress a week ago.

Now, after a frenetic couple of days we have new halyards for all three sails and new line for the dinghy lift which is over twice the length of the main mast. We've cycled to supermarket for more epicurean delights, done laundry, defrosted fridge and freezer and been to our favourite restaurant for a sushi platter. I think we'd earned it.


26 June Day 2 & 3 fixing the issues

Yesterday we made a big step forward getting a 'mouse' line running freely from top to bottom, or bottom to top, of the mast. First step was the strong fishing line with lead weights which David dropped from the top and I was able to catch with a crochet hook as it appeared at the bottom. I took the fishing line and attached a 6mm cord which David pulled to the top. Hurrah! On our way. At then end of the day we had a mouse line deck to deck via the pulley at the top of the mast and the sail sitting on the boom waiting to be reattached.

Today was an even bigger step towards resolution. The day began with finding a length of rope of the correct dimension in the onboard store. Fortunately we had one, not perfect, but workable to restore the sail to its proper place.

I sewed one end to the 6mm mouse cord to the line for the smoothest join and we pulled the other of the mouse and we have a halyard to attach to the slumped, and partially furled sail. We waited for a lull in the wind to untie the lashings, unfurl it and hoist to the top of the mast. Then it was a simple job to furl away and we have an operating main sail once more.

But we have a casualty; coming back to deck level in the bosun's chair David bruised his right big toe on one winch and pulled off part of the nail on his other foot on the winch on the other side. A nasty injury for the medic to dress and splatters of blood on the deck to mop.

This is a fix, not the final solution. For that we'll sail back to the marina and the 5 well stocked chandlers to buy new rope to replace the halyards on all three sails. In a couple of weeks we'll be sailing almost 500nm to Bonaire. We need to have confidence in our running rigging and Bonaire only has one small chandlery. A quick internet search shows the price of rope there to be double that in Guadeloupe.

Too busy being busy today to take any photos of our progress.

24 June Day 1 fixing the issues

Yesterday we came frighteningly close to losing Jackster by being blown onto a reef after leaving the marina in Pointe-a-Pitre with a dirty propeller. Lesson learned – we should have cleaned the hull before leaving the dock rather than assuming we'd have enough propulsion to clear the channel. No matter how unpleasant it would have been to dive in the murky marina water, it wasn't anywhere near as bad as living with the aftermath of going aground on the reefs. And we didn't expect the sudden squall that caused the mainsail halyard to part.

By hook and by crook we avoided the hull crunching hard stuff and are now safe on a mooring at the Saints.  The wind is gusting and swirling behind the island.

After we've added more sail lashings up to first spreaders to control flogging and to stop damage the next thing is for David to get into his scuba gear and clean the hull and prop. At least the water is clean here, clear to see an unexpectedly large amount of growth and barnacles. Now should something happen we can motor.

In the afternoon we begin to tackle the issue of a snapped halyard. To be able to lower the sail we first have to attach a line to the remains of the broken halyard then tension the sail back to the top of the mast, and then we can fully unfurl it . Once the sail is free from the snags and creases, we lower the sail down and lash it all to the boom. 

I winch David up to the top of the mast. If you were playing to your strengths smaller me would have been in the bosun's chair and stronger David would have been on the winch. But I lack to expertise to fix whatever has gone awry at the top of the mast and the knowledge of which in mast channel to drop a weighted fishing line. 

Our plan was to drop strong fishing line because it is thin and slippery with several lead fishing weights on the end down to the bottom of the mast where I could pull it through. Then David would attach a 'mouse' line of stronger cord so we'd have the means to hoist a new rope up the mast to the top. Sounds straight forward? The lower half of the original halyard we are trying to replace has emerged out of the bottom of the mast onto the deck, but the top half is stuck fast somewhere inside, presumably the upper free end has managed to fold itself around something equally important inside the mast, perhaps one of several electrical cables powering the various lights, VHF radio and wind instruments, and we can't a new line through despite our best efforts. The temptation to attach the broken line to a winch and drag it out is dismissed for the moment, that would be the last resort.

The sun's gone down and it's getting too dark to continue. Tomorrow's another day for solving problems.


23 June Bugger!

No more extensions to our marina stay permitted. We have to leave today. It's not ideal weather with passing squalls and we suspect the prop has fouling because we've been here too long. The water in the marina is dirty with road water run off, boat yard chemicals & grey water, not good enough to dive and clean the hull but we have only to manoeuvre out of our berth and run 500m down the channel before reaching open water where we'll be able to switch to sail power. We're going to Iles des Saintes today.

David's on helm, the dock master releases our forward lines and I slip the aft ones and we're away. Slowly out into the channel; the prop's less effective than we anticipated and we're making 3 knots, half our usual speed under motor. Going down the channel the wind is picking up as a squall approaches so we pull out the mainsail to give us a wind assist.

As we're approaching the narrow exit out to open water which is marked with two reds to left and two greens to right indicating the reefs, when what you don't want to happen happens. David is on deck stowing the fenders and dock lines before we get into open water. I'm on helm. Suddenly in a strong gust of wind the mainsail halyard breaks and the sail slumps. The normally aerodynamic sail now has taken on the characteristics of an out of control parachute pulling us sideways to the starboard side of the channel.

A slumped sail is a disaster with in mast furling because you can't just drop it to reduce the windage. We have 26 knots of wind and rain on our port beam and reefs with breaking water to leeward. With the sail slumped on the boom, held within the mast, I see the wind is going to push us dangerously close to the reef to starboard.

Action mode! My judgement in these conditions was that we didn't have sufficient sea room or power to safely turn Jackster around within the markers and retreat back to the marina. I won't be able to turn the bow through the wind and turning the stern runs the risk of being pushed onto the rocks. We can only go forward and hope.

David furls the sail into the mast as much as possible and grabs sail ties and ropes to lash the rest to the boom to reduce windage. I'm on helm steering hard to port, just off the wind to maintain position and making a frightening 1 knot ahead. The rain's coming down hard. The wind's gusting over 25 knots. David's on deck grappling to lash the sail and we're slowly getting pushed toward the green marker and white water. There's a yacht coming in which sees we are in danger and turns around to give us room and, I think, standing by to assist if we go aground.

Gradually we ease out of the channel but there's very little distance, perhaps 50m, on our starboard side to the breaking waves. My knees are shaking. This is close, much too close. Once we have cleared the green marker we try a bit of headsail to gain more forward motion and this helps us to claw metre by metre clear of danger.

We may be out into deeper water but still not safe. The squall has passed, wind speed has dropped and our direction is now more favourable. We're making 3 knots, crabbing sideways. Our lee shore distance has increased to one mile. Now I can engage the autopilot and go forward to help David complete lashing the sail. He's got it stashed on the boom but has to go up the mast using the mast steps to stop the flogging on the mast and irreparably damaging the sail cloth. Once lashed this further reduces the uncontrolled windage. There are more shallow areas to negotiate before we are entirely clear of danger.

Finally we are under control. Shaken by the near miss, we could have lost Jackster. We came very close to it. The closest we've ever been to losing her. A friend once asked the question 'what's the most dangerous part of sailing? Land.

From the halyard snapping to sailing safely in the right direction has taken just over 40 minutes but it felt a lot longer. In the quiet I can now hear the French Coastguard on VHF 16 putting out a call, first to a catamaran which has dismasted north of Guadeloupe in the same squall and then for a ketch in difficulties south of Pointe-a-Pitre channel. That's us! We presume the yacht that stood by to help saw our problem and reported it. During the kerfuffle I wasn't listening to the radio and wouldn't have had time to answer it anyway. Now I do and can respond to them. I call the coastguard HQ who are located in Fort de France, Martinique to report our position, how many on board, that we are now safe and sailing to the Saints. We consider it is safer to sail on than to turn and motor back through the narrow entrance into the marina. In the Saints the mooring field is in the lee of the island and even with limited prop power we'll pick up a mooring.

Four hours later and we are safe on a mooring. Behind the island the wind was less than 5 knots and I helmed us in, David on the bow with the special boat hook that gets a line through a ring. Phew! Once we're secure I call coast guard HQ to report our arrival and to thank them for their watch.

Now we can assess what went wrong and what the remedial steps will be. The halyard parted at the point it goes over the pulley at the top of the mast probably due to age. David checked it less than a year ago when we put the new sail up and there was no sign of wear then. The two problems we have to solve are undoing the hasty untidy furling and dropping the sail and how to get a new line down the inside of the mast. We've done it before with cables to the anchor light and we'll do it again, but not tonight. It's not been a good day on Jackster, sunset is approaching and we've earned a large gin and tonic while we debate what we did right and what we could have done better, should it ever happen again. What doesn't kill you, make you stronger – according to the song!

sail lashed & sailing on

slumped part way down mast

chafed halyard


22 August 2025

22 June Prepping to leave the marina part 2

Tomorrow is D day; departure from Bas du Fort marina, destination Les Saintes 20nm south. New parts are fitted, engine, genset, bowthruster and lights checked. Water tank full, boat very clean and fridge and freezer full with French fare.