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24 August 2026

20 June Marina Le Marin

We’ve arrived at our base for the next month, the marina in Le Marin, Martinique. Our hurricane plan for 2026 is a three month visit to Bonaire from 1 August. With a 90 day permitted stay in Bonaire for UK passport holders this means that we can stay until 1 November when we expect / hope the threat of hurricanes for this year to have passed and we can safely return to the eastern Caribbean.

Le Marin is pertinent for owners of Amel yachts because this is the manufacturers Caribbean base for service and parts. As we reverse into our med moor style slip we become Amel number 14 on this dock. Our neighbours fill almost the full range of boats the company has produced over the years from Santorin, a couple of 54s and a 55. It’s interesting to walk the dock and see the evolution of the brand.

Marina Le Marin is the largest marina in the Caribbean and with moorings and anchored boats the largest collection of all boats in the West Indies. I estimate there must be close to 1,500 boats counting 830 marina berths, 200 moorings (estimate) and hundreds anchored between here and St Anne’s at the entrance to the channel. Martinique is full of boats staying here for hurricane season.

We want some parts from the chandlers. I have more sewing projects.



16 June And then there were none

We’ve been visiting Ilet Cabrit for the last three years and during that time we’ve been accustomed to seeing the feral cats hanging around the picnic table area. They are the same colours as the cats on the big island so we think they will have been dumped here.

When we first saw them there were 4 cats. Earlier this year there were 2; a cream female we called Snowy and a ginger female we named Ginger. In the evening we would feed them and fill up their water bowl.

Snowy & Ginger

Within a couple of days of arriving this time we saw a group of people grouped at the picnic table with small animal carriers and catch nets. They had come to remove the feral cats, chickens and goats. Invasive species that are not good for the native bird population or the native plants.

Because we haven’t seen Snowy or Ginger for three weeks we assumed that they had been captured and removed. That was until four days before we were due to leave when we spotted Snowy alone on the beach. Of course we immediately went ashore with wet food, nibbles and water. She was thin, but she did recognise us as her feeders. Over the next couple of days we visited her late afternoon to feed and to build up some trust.

If we didn’t already have Polly we would have been tempted to adopt her, but Polly would never accept another cat so the best we can do is to find Snowy a new home off the island.

For this I reached out to a contact on Terre Haut to ask if there was an animal shelter or cat rescue that would accept her if we caught her and brought her over. There was. An organisation called Z’animo Les Saintes agreed if we could bring her in they would take her and thus Operation Rescue Snowy began – better for her to go to a place where there would be other cats, regular food and where she could be spayed, better for the island ecosystem too.

Early this morning we arrived on the beach with food, a large zipped holdall (not Polly’s carry case to avoid possible cross contamination), a big towel and a pair of long protective gloves. The plan was to tempt Snowy onto the table with food, throw the towel over her and ease her into the bag. Reality was not as smooth; she fought like a wild cat, bit David’s finger through the glove but we did get her in the bag.

Before dinghying over to Haut Terre we went back to the big boat to disinfect and dress David’s wound while Snowy lay quietly in the bottom of the dinghy.

On the big island we found the shelter in the old police station on the main road. The staff were welcoming and very helpful. She now has a clean and safe cage while she settles in and there are many wild cats who come in for a feed each morning so she won’t be lonely. A vet is coming over from Guadeloupe this weekend and will spay her then for which we made a donation to cover the cost.

We were both teary saying goodbye but hope some kind person will see her pretty face and offer her a forever home.




at Z'animo Les Saintes

skinny Snowy

17 August 2026

2 June Replacing clears

While I had the sewing machine (a Sailrite with walking foot, ideal for tough jobs and thick materials) out and the time we also replaced the now clear plastic in the bimini side panels. Constant sunshine has degraded the material rendering them cloudy and brittle.

A few months ago when we were in the marina I took rubbish to the bins and discovered that the sail shop had chucked three rolls of 1mm thick clear plastic. Each had between 2 and 3 metres lengths and thus one persons surplus became this ladies’ upcycling opportunity.

Unpicking the stitching was a whole family job, but she was paid more than minimum wage in juvenile trevally.



1 June New dinghy seeks new chaps

Chaps, or protective cover, for the new dinghy was a priority when we reached Les Saintes. Our plan is to spend a month here, specifically at our favourite island, Ilet a Cabrit, which is only inhabited with feral chickens, goats and cats. Half a mile from the main island of Terre de Haut we like the quietness and clear water for swimming

For these chaps I’m starting from new; making the pattern in plastic, then transferring this to new Sunbrella, fitting, altering, fitting, until we have a snug fit.

I think the patterning was the hardest part. Especially as we were trying to control flimsy plastic in up to 20 knots of wind. We used plenty of masking tape, hands, legs and elbows to keep the plastic in place as I traced the shapes, curves and handles accurately. It took us 2 days and much perseverance to complete before I could begin cutting fabric.

My modus operandi is to begin with the forward section. This is ‘the anchor’ off which the sides hang and finally the rear points and fitting around the transom.

On the last chaps we used 5cm wide velcro to fix the inside and outside edges. This meant glueing strips directly onto the hypalon. Overtime the glue degraded and we had loose sections. With the new chaps we used long plastic hooks sewn inside the outer edge to clip onto the hard rubbing strake. I cut the inside pieces to wrap around the tube and fit all the way down to the floor with an eyelet and cord fixing in each corner.

Nine days after we began the job was finished. I’d even made a cover for the cushion on the forward seat.

Dinghy’s are made with a fabric that can be scratched, ripped, pierced, etc by a projecting nail on a dock, abraded by a scuba tank and BCD being pulled in from the water or abraded by UV so it makes sense to prolong the life of the family runaround with an investment of either time or money. For us the cost was 6m of Sunbrella UV resistant fabric and unpaid labour.

naked




and now well dressed

13 August 2026

4 – 14 May Marina bas du Fort haul out 2026

Day 1

At 10 o’clock we were first boat out of the water today and our spot on a flat concrete base is at the door to Big Ship chandlers. Very handy. As is the distance to our apartment for the duration of the haul out. Five minutes to walk, half that on our bikes and to a one bed apartment with terrace overlooking the inner lagoon, a proper shower room and air conditioning. It will be safer for Polly to stay here and far more comfortable for us while we are working. We’ve stayed on board during haul outs and it is like basic camping.

Our mission over the next week or so is to polish the topsides, apply new anti foul and service bow thruster, propeller and through hulls. David begins with three hours of jet washing which removes a lot of the old anti foul from the hull and we drop the anchor and chain onto a pallet under the bow to reduce weight and give that a thorough clean too.

The rest of the day is setting up for the tasks ahead.






Day 2

It’s a 6am start to beat the heat. First job was acid washing the topsides to remove water/rust/exhaust stains and then the start of the dirtiest part of the project, sanding the old anti foul.

Mid morning we receive a delivery of Jotun thinners and an undercoat called Viniguard from the shop where we bought the last 20L pail of Jotun anti foul 2 months ago. If we’d known they’d deliver….

We are liking this yard. It’s a better environment compared to our last haul out in Spice Island,Grenada which is sand, rocks and rubbish next to the fishing boats grinding off GRP. Here we have a concrete base to work on, yard supplied water, a choice of chandlers, services & technicians, an amazing boulangerie for your morning croissant, Carrefour supermarket and more than a dozen restaurants so I don’t have to cook.


Day 3

Another pre dawn start but needed because this is going to be a hectic day. On with our hazchem suits, dust masks, protective goggles and gloves ready to sand the hull. What makes anti foul an effective barrier coat against marine growth is not good for humans.

An hour after we begin we find that one of our two orbital sanders is failing. Nothing that can’t be repaired with a 2” x 3” piece of plastic visa card and a 30 minute cycle ride to Jarry industrial zone to find a replacement.

Day 4

The usual early start. Bobby arrives at 8am to begin polishing the topsides. We’ve been watching him work on another boat, liked what we saw and hired him. Unlike us, he’s very tall, strong, much younger than us and has promised to complete the job in two days. It usually takes us 4 or 5 days and it is hard, hard work.

6pm rolls around and I am beaten, drained of any energy. Bobby’s polished one side and it looking excellent. We’ve done more hull prep and David has sanded the propeller.

We cycle back to our cool sanctuary, make a fuss of Polly who has had an equally tough day sleeping on the bed, take much needed showers and then a leisurely gin and tonic on the terrace while I heat up a posh ready meal from Thiriet frozen food. Guinea fowl in a white wine cream sauce is posh isn’t it?

apartment balcony

Day 5

It is Friday. It is a public holiday and the marina make no charge for public holidays, or for Sundays. Incredible!

By the end of day we have made significant progress. I’d hazard to say we are half way to finishing. Bobby has finished polishing the topsides and Jackster is gleaming brightly. David and I have finished the onerous task of sanding the hull and David has applied a base coat, or a tie coat, of Jotun Viniguard. We are now ready to apply the anti foul.

applying tie coat

During the day we found time to set up a For Sale pitch under Jackster: our old dinghy with the leaking seam and a 10kg stainless steel anchor we’re not using. Tomorrow is Saturday. It could be a good day to catch passing trade visiting the chandlers in front of us.

Day 6

Turns out that Saturday is a good day to sell items from the bilge. The sales assistant at the chandlers is buying our dinghy and anchor. In return we buy from him a special anti foul paint for propellers and a spray bottle of ceramic wax to seal our newly polished hull. Unlike the 3M wax we used to apply with an electric buffer pad this is simply a spray on / polish with a cloth. Quicker and easier. Time will tell if it is any good.

As the sunsets we pat ourselves on the back for a job well done: topsides completed, hull prep completed, bow thruster serviced and some extra Euros for the project from selling a couple of bits no longer needed on passage.


Day 7

We’re getting there. The propeller was removed and the old oil drained and late in the afternoon when the full heat of the sun was gone we rolled on the first coat of anti foul. We were so late in the afternoon that the final painting was in dark under the yards nights lights! There’ll be no heat blisters in the first coat.

Day 8

An extra early start with the second coat of anti foul applied before sunrise. While that was flashing off we went ‘home’ for showers and breakfast and returned to fix the propeller back in place and fill the oil reservoir with hypoid gear oil. Then it was the turn of all through hulls to have their bi-annual maintenance. This involves drenching in oil and opening and closing to lubricate the mechanism.

Late in the day when the anti foul was dry we moved the supporting hull chocks to new positions thus giving access to 10 patched of un-sanded hull. When we’ve done this in other yards it is the yard manager who directs his staff. This is for safety. He doesn’t want a boat to fall over because a support has been removed before a replacement is in place. In Bas du Fort they thought it a strange request and David did it himself. Fortunately he is very capable. Jackster is well, and safely, supported.

So it was more sanding, more undercoat, more anti foul for 100% hull coverage.


where the support had been

Day 9

Tomorrow we are going back in the water so today was preparing our fenders and making protective covers to place between Jackster’s newly sparkling hull and the dirty, scratchy lift slings.

Fender prep involved a lot of water, soap and scrubbing. I also wrapped them in new soft plastic.

My sling protectors were a re-purposed mattress protector that someone had thrown in the bin. It was 6’ long and sufficiently wide to be cut into 4 strips of greater width then the lift straps. Hung from the guard rails with sail ties they should work.


Day 10

Back in the water!

As always with Jackster the very last job can only be done while we are suspended in the lift. This is when David has to lie under the flat bottom of our winged keel, whilst 20 tons of boat dangle just above chest height. He has to prep and paint 2-3sq m of cast iron in the time we are allowed by the lift handler. This time it is over the lunch break; lifted at midday and on our way to the water 90 minutes later. Not a perfect scenario for drying but it’s what we have.

We are going to have three days alongside in the marina to put things away and remove the dust of the yard.

This year has been one of the good ones and a new personal best on time. Ten days compared to 12 in Grenada in October ‘23. Hurrah!



30 April Admiral returns to command

I’m back on board after my trip home minus one London house but with a potential purchase of a new place in the country underway.

David has been busy. We may not have a house but we do have two dinghies. How flash is that? He has taken the green cover / chaps from the old boat and fitted them on the new one. The Mercury dinghy must be feeling abandoned...it is looking for a new home at a very reasonable price.

We are also scheduled to haul out in four days’ time to antifoul and regular maintenance.


4 April Moored in Ilet Cochon Baie

 No space in the marina at Bas du Fort we’ve picked up a mooring ball outside in Ilet Cochon Baie for a month. I’m flying home in a few days to complete the sale of our house in Greenwich and to remove the last few remaining items.

Before I leave David and I need to go shopping for a new dinghy. The repair on our current dinghy isn’t holding and we know that Bas du Fort offers a choice of chandlers with dinghies in stock. This would be our 4th dinghy. The one that is broken now was bought in Mauritius in 2017 when the dinghy we bought second hand from Mystery Ship fell apart. Literally, all the glued seams gave way and we had to buy a replacement. Luckily there was one in stock. We hope to have the same fortune today.

We got lucky! There was a special 20% discount on Highfield boats this week. It would have been rude to pass on this bargain, plus we were able to apply for tax exempt as a foreign vessel.

New Highfield on right



Two dinghy household



31 March Cleared out from Antigua

 We cleared out from Antigua bound south for Guadeloupe tomorrow, filled up with what might be the best price diesel and petrol in the Caribbean at Jolly harbour marina and had dinner with Jack and Jan on Anthem. We got Anthemed! Jan super size gins, wines and a wee nip of Talisker at the end of the evening was probably, no, was, a nip too far.

For me or short trip to Guadeloupe was accompanied by a dull headache. All my own fault.

30 March Repairs

Now back in Jolly Harbour we’ve patched and glued the blown seam on the dinghy. It’s not perfect, new bulges are appearing along the seam, but holding for now.

This evening was a great get together with our buddies Jack & Jan from Anthem. It may have been a while since we last saw them, enough time for them to marry, though the conversation flowed like it had only been a few days.

22 March Bugger!

 We’d had a lovely day anchored in Falmouth Harbour. In the morning we’d left our dinghy on the dock while we went for a walk over Pigeon Hill. The afternoon was relaxing ahead of dinner at Pillars in English Harbour but when we went to step into our dinghy tied at the back of the boat we saw one of the tubes had deflated. Bugger!

A quick check revealed not a cut to the hypalon but a seam under the rubbing strip had parted. I see glueing in our future.