10 May Chagos

idyllic

The passage from Gan, Maldives to Salomon atoll, Chagos was an easy 300nm motor and sail across the ITCZ, aka the Doldrums into the northern reaches of the SE trade winds. We went through the pass with no less than 6m depth of water and headed towards the permitted anchorage by Tanaka and Le Fouquet island. With the wind out of the SE the islands would give us protection from wind waves. I stood on the bow looking for bommies and directing David around when I saw one.

There were already 10 boats in the anchorage, none had gone to the mooring field off Boddam island in the south west corner, and we knew all of them from the sail Maldives rally. The boats with shallower drafts or less anchor chain had anchored on the sand tongue between the two islands. We anchored in 20m behind the first row of boats.

with 12 boats at Tanaka anchorage

During the day we explored by dinghy, did some snorkelling but the water was murky so it wasn't so good. However, the upside of the 'green' water was it brought in the mantas who swirled, fed and played in the current off the south side of sand spit and not being afraid of people swam right up to us. There was plenty of traditional cruiser activities like meeting for sundowners on the beach. At one gathering we were 22 people. The energy fueled younger element marked out a volley ball court and held a tournament.

In our most energetic we spent a couple of hours walking around Le Fouquet island at low tide. As it is in Galapagos, the birds have no experience or fear of humans. The booby nests are close to the beach and this hatchling was unperturbed by our presence.

booby chick

A week after we arrived the BIOT boat visited to check our permits and to stamp our passports. There were two RIBs deployed from the mother ship (which had to wait outside the atoll) manned by the Royal Navy and with a civilian, Liverpudlian Dave, who is usually searching for illegal fishing boats, and a lady representing British Customs. Only Dave and the Customs lady came on board, the rib hovered waiting to take them to the next boat until the pod of resident spinner dolphins turned up at which point the navy went to play with the dolphins. Dave fisheries commented he was surprised to fins all the yachts anchored because in previous years they had been on the self made moorings at Boddam island. We explained we didn't like the limitations of being so close to so many shallow bommies and prefer the security of our own chain and anchor in sand versus a chain of dubious quality tied to a coral head.

old wreck of a catamaran

afternoon volley ball tournament