19 January Arrival Hout Bay

At 2am we glided past Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa, with 100nm to go to Hout Bay. Our sail from East London had been peaceful, motoring when the wind died. At midday we were on a NNW heading approaching the Cape of Good Hope. The wind had picked up to 25 knots and the swell from the SW had also picked up. Mid afternoon and only six miles to go to the marina. The wind had strengthened again to 30 to 35 knots, but once we turned east to make our final approach the katabatic effect increased this to 35 gusting 40 knots. The closer we got to land the stronger the wind and more fierce the gusts until we were motoring with a scrap of headsail, up to 50 knots on the starboard beam and looking a cloud of sea spray right in the bay.

When we entered Hout Bay at 4.30pm the wind was blowing a steady 45kts, gusting to 57kts, Force 10.

Before making an approach into the harbour we tried calling harbour control on the VHF and Roy (Ocean Cruising Club Port Captain) answered my call. In the conditions we were experiencing it was extremely difficult to hear what he was saying clearly. I then phoned the marina manager for his advice on entering harbour and getting in to the marina. His reply was that someone would be on the dock to take lines.

However, before we made a decision to enter the marina there were two factors we had to consider; was this the katabatic wind we had read about and would it pass over quickly? The second consideration was the entrance to the harbour is on the leeward side of the bay and our concern of not being able to motor away if the entry was dangerous, let alone manoeuvering safely inside the harbour to reach our berth.

Considering these two factors we decided to anchor in 16m of water close to the windward side of the bay as we felt the mountains could offer more protection from the SE and we would have plenty of sea room behind us. With the wind still blowing a houlie I crawled along the deck to untie our 33kg Rocna anchor. We have 100m of 10mm chain and put out 70m to begin with. I was being washed by sea waves coming over the bow, Jackster was like a terrier staining on her lead, but our anchor held, much vicious swinging, but no backward movement.

Jackster still on anchor, rescue arived

Shortly after anchoring Sea Rescue (SA equivalent of the British RNLI) called us on the radio to offer their assistance. I asked if conditions were expected to improve and they informed us no, conditions were not expected to improve for two days and they could offer us a tow into the harbour.

Sea Rescue deploys their swimmer

Taking the tow line

two boats hanging on our anchor

Twenty minutes later the Rescue tow boat arrived. A swimmer jumped in the water and lightning fast climbed aboard via the transom, not by the side swim ladder which we were in the process of putting in place. Callum then took the heaving line followed by a tow line from the Rescue boat. The tow line was secured to our bow cleat and we were asked to raise the anchor. The Rescue boat at this point was downwind of our anchor (we later discovered they had a turbo issue causing steerage problems) and we now had the weight of both Jackster and the Rescue boat on our anchor. The anchor held but under the strain our chain started to skip over the gypsy wheel. Once the situation was relayed to the skipper of the tow boat he was able to reduce the strain of his boat on us and under full throttle we powered forward and recovered our anchor.

During this time a second NSRI boat joined us and a second man was able step on board when they came alongside.

under tow

While we were under tow in to the harbour I and the two NSRI men prepared lines and fenders to come alongside. Jackster came in to the harbour still under tow. Even within the harbour walls the wind was still blowing between 40kts to 50kts with gusts approaching 60kts.

harbour entrance

The consensus of the rescuers was it too fraught with danger to attempt to manoeuvrer us into a marina berth in the current conditions so decided to put us on to a concrete wharf. At this point they asked if we could manoeuvre under our own power to which we said yes. The tow line was dropped and we motored alongside the wall where the Sea Rescue guys were waiting to take and help with our lines.

The NSRI Captain advised us to stay alongside the wall until conditions improved. Our first night was not comfortable, Even though we had all our fenders between us and the black truck tyres the movement of the boat on the tide, and gusts continuing over 50 knots, shifted the fenders. The black rubber from the tyres shifted to our white hull. Overnight we burst our largest fender and chafed through two lines. But we were safely tied alongside, not being bashed on anchor hoping the holding was good.

We thank and praise the speedy response, professionalism and dedication of the Hout Bay National Sea Rescue Institute, all volunteers, who were happy to turn out in horrible conditions to help strangers. Their selflessness to help others is the best side of human nature and we thanked them profusely.

Our 'rescue' is not something we were proud of. Could we have done things differently? Did we under estimate the weather forecast? Yes. When the forecast shows 30 knots at sea in this part of the world add at least another 10 knots on top. Time your arrival for morning when the wind is less. However, we are told these were extreme conditions, not seen for three years. The last time it happened was when the World ARC Rally tried to enter and Sea Rescue had to help then in.

Next morning we contacted the other boats who had been travelling with us on the same weather window from East London. They too had had a tough time and had been caught out by the extreme conditions. One boat trying to reach the marina in Simons Town also found themselves overpowered by the same conditions and had to call out Sea Rescue to assist them on to an emergency mooring ball outside the marina. Another boat also found it impossible to enter Simons Town marina; at 1am they anchored in Pilgrims Bay on the south side of False Bay to wait until the wind reduced. They were there for two days.

Three boats continued on to Cape Town. They too had to anchor and await better conditions before being able to enter the harbour safely.

To conclude the story of our epic arrival in Hout Bay twenty four hours after our ignominious arrival on to the wall of the ice factory the wind did drop and we were able to move in to our berth in the marina. Our hull is rubber black, the fenders rubber black, but we are tied up safely. Within five minutes of getting in the wind came back and blew forty knots once more. That night we had dinner with Jackie and Gary of Inspiration Lady, a 'we're here beer' and slept deeply.