Thursday 16 June Yanuca, Ringgold or Budd Reef

What a lovely day for a motor through one fringing reef north of Rabi, across the Tasman Strait and through the fringing reef of Budd Reef, also known as Ringgold reef. It took 3 hours to cover the 15 miles and we joined Stray Kitty as the only boats in the anchorage in front of the only village in early afternoon.

Ryan & Andrea carrying firewood

Yanuca anchorage; Stray Kitty, Jackster





On the way in we'd been hailed by the village chief on the radio with suggestions of a good place to anchor and an invitation to come ashore. Chris, Christine and their kitties picked us up in their dinghy and we went in to a neat settlement to offer sevusevu to the chief. Sevusevu is bringing a gift of kava or yaqona to the chief and asking permission to visit his islands, walk through he village, to anchor, swim and to catch fish. We all sit in a circle. We give the chief a bunch of kava and he asks the gods for blessing and grants us our wish with much hand clapping. Later in the evening the villagers will prepare the kava roots' pounded them, adding water and straining the crushed roots to make a milky looking drink that makes the face and lips numb I'm told. We haven't tried any.

Yanuca village



The chief's son, Willy, was our guide for our stay. He's probably late 20's, married with a seven month son, a guide, a free diver, a scuba diver. Tomorrow he's going to come with us in our boat over to Cobia (pronounced Thombia) a volcanic crater 4 miles to the north to show us the walk to the top and do some snorkelling. He's even promised to bring some of his Mum's coconut pancakes for breakfast.

After our meeting with the chief was concluded Will showed us the walk to the top of the hill and the view of Taveuni to the south. It's what us cruisers need more of – exercise.

We'd expected a quiet dinner aboard but Will called on the radio to ask if we wanted an octopus his Mum had caught for dinner and that he would show us how to cook it Fijian style on board Stray Kitty. Plans are only made to be broken. David and Chris picked him, the octopus which had been beaten to break the sinews and a bowl of freshly squeezed coconut milk and he cooked it for us. Before when I've had octopus it's been rubbery and a strong flavour. Will's dish was a delicious delicacy. What a revelation! Also learning that this remote village on a faraway island knew all about the recent Royal wedding, knew all the players and commented on the expected line of succession. Never think because someone doesn't live in a city they aren't up to date on world affairs. That's the power of modern communication and a large satellite dish to pick up TV signals.