Monday 9 September Rinca...there be dragons

The two big islands going west from Flores are Rinca and Komodo and both have Komodo dragons living on them, both have a ranger station with organised tours to see these big lizards. We chose to come to Rinca as it is less visited than Komodo island plus we've been to Komodo seven years ago when we were on our diving holiday.

Our appointment at the ranger station was for 7am, much better to do the walk in a cooler part of the day. First trick was clambering up from the dinghy on to the jetty at low water with no steps to help and as you clambered up coming face to face with a couple of Macaque Muggers, or monkeys, intent on stealing anything they can get their paws on. They were into the dinghies as soon as we were out looking for treasure, or anything not physically attached though I'm sure they get it undone. I had visions of them starting the motor and going joy riding around the bay. They did make off with a water bottle from Rutea's boat. I almost forgot to mention the sign on the dock, 'beware of crocodiles'! I thought we'd left this behind in Australia, but no, a 4m croc was spotted here a couple of weeks ago. Some people think sailing's dangerous; it's the coming ashore which is really dangerous.

which animal is most dangerous?

great white observers

viper in the shed

David Attenborough I presume?

moving in for final attackk

Up at the ranger station we paid our fees for park entry, the guided walk and for having a camera before being assigned 2 guides for groups of 4 to 6 people. In our group we had the four from Rutea and you need two guides, one to lead and explain what you're seeing, the other to protect the stragglers from rear attack (which is the modus operandi of a dragon). There were four beasts around the ranger station hanging out for easy pickings from the kitchen (or a tourist) and we were shown a viper sleeping in the generator shed. Coming from a none poisonous snake country we're fascinated by them. This chap wasn't big and he was very well camouflaged.

On our walk we saw plenty of dragons, females guarding their nesting sites and further along the walk one dragon moving in on the kill of a buffalo. Dragons kill by biting an animal and the listeria in their saliva is so potent it dies from the infection. Then all the dragons in the area move in for a feast. We came upon a distressed water buffalo lying in a muddy pool with a Komodo dragon lying on the bank above waiting to make the final strike. At the same time the grass and trees were rustling with activity as other dragons smelt the death and were closing in. Fortunately our two guides were attentive and keep their sticks at the ready, ready to shoo then away should they come our way. Nothing happened while we were watching and we moved along keeping a wary eye of the paths around us.

The walk was three hours long and by the time we came back to the ranger station it was getting very warm. We did see eagles and bush turkeys but no glimpses of the deer or wild ponies which also live on the island.

Back at the dinghies the Macaque Muggers had been pushed back by the rangers but they were still waiting on the path for the unwary.

It was a busy day. After lunch we left to go to an anchorage on the southern side of Rinca, it's a big island, hoping we'd timed the currents correctly. Currents between the islands can reach up to 8 knots in the narrower channels when it ebbs north or flows south is never exact. I thought we'd catch the beginning of the southern flow around 1pm but we still caught the north setting flood. Around the islands there are up wellings, whirl pools and counter currents. A nightmare. Other boats making the same trip had found a spot to anchor and wait for the tide to turn so we joined them there. Why motor into a 6 knot current when you can sit in an area of no current for an hour and then continue. While we waited we got in the water for a swim and took the opportunity to clean the hull.

As soon as we could see the current had died from swirling banshee to calmness we picked up the anchor and continued through the channel with a knot of current helping us along. Our night stop was a bay on the west side of Rinca with Rutea and Geramar.