We
walked from town past the oldest Catholic church in Madagascar to the
village which owns the island which is Pirate Cemetery. (The oldest
church has been locked ever since the bells were stolen.)
We
hired a guide to give us the tour which included not only the
cemetery, but also an informed guide to the plants and trees; clove
leaves, cinnamon bark, cashew and nutmeg trees .
David meets dinner - Zeba |
Oldest Catholic church in Mada |
cemetery |
Jules
told us that from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century Ile St
Marie was key a pirate island. It had a sheltered harbour in
Ambodifotatra, easy access to the Indian Ocean trade routes and no
law enforcement. All that remains today are their remains in a
cemetery on a small mount overlooking the old harbour. There's a
monument to Scottish Captain Kidd, once a privateer for the British
and then a pirate when he disobeyed an order to 'donate' his crew to
the navy. He was here for many years, but was executed in London,
tied to a stake in the Thames river for three tides. If you were
alive after the third high tide you were free to be tried as a witch.
If not you were dead.
With
the pirate graves are graves of the French administrators who arrived
in the 19th century, sailors who died from malaria,
friends who killed each other in a duel over a local lady and
children of the settlers.
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