22 August Swimming pools, Ile St Marie

Before leaving Ambodifotatra we had to visit the Port Captain to pay our harbour dues and to obtain clearance to Mahajunga on the west coast of Madagascar where we intend to clear out. The costs were 35,000Ar for harbour fees and 30,000Ar for the sailing permit both with receipts and seemed official.

humpbacks fleeing tourist boats

villages are neat and clean

walking towards pools

We sailed north with a NZ Red Herring (Karen and Graham) who we first met in Mauritius. On the way we had many close sightings of humpback whales. At the anchorage on the northern end of the island the swell wrapped around the headland causing us to roll and making the beach landing with the dinghy interesting, timing was crucial not to get dumped in the surf.

We went ashore with Karen and Graham to walk a trail to natural swimming pools at the very north tip of the island and visit the lighthouse. It was raining lightly this morning, but it's only freshwater ,and the path was only slippery in places. We came out on to a road and continued on to the village who 'own' the swimming pools. The cost for a guide was inexpensive. He spoke good English and could explain the fady, or taboo, for visitors, no shoes and no gold being two. The pools are formed by a barrier of hard granite which the sea fills at high water. The local kids were loving it.

whale watching

Having fun in the pools

simple, tidy villages

We loved watching humpbacks breaching close to the shore and paddling in the pools.

On the return walk we visited the lighthouse, now beyond repair, a rusting tower.

We finished our walk back at the hotel where we'd begun at lunchtime. Lunch was the local dish of chicken in coconut; the sauce was tasty, chicken meat scarce.