22 December Cartagena at Christmas

Gliding in to the large natural harbour of Cartagena at 3am was surreal: a full moon, clear skies, no wind with the mirror like water reflecting the line

of apartment blocks which stand between the harbour and the ocean. The only other craft on the water this morning were a tug and an occasional small fishing boat. The only sounds the distant hum of traffic and our engine.

Buoyage was clear and easy to follow straight to the anchorage south of Club Nautico marina. Our first thought was that there were far fewer boats in the anchorage than when we were here in 2009. Since then the marina has been built, perhaps they had moved in to there?

Christopher Columbus

Our first morning was clear and bright. We could also gauge the positions of other boats and found a sweet spot close to the entrance to the marina where we'd be taking our dinghy ashore.

In 2009 Club Nautico was a work in progress. Now it has space for approximately 70 boats med moored, a busy dinghy dock with cleats, but nowhere to lock and a smart restaurant. There's a service laundry and showers. Considering it's a new facility many things are already broken or not finished, ie no doors on the showers, rickety cleats and chipped tiles. The restaurant serves good food, cold beers and tasty coffee.

Manuela, David and Ian with a street vendor

houses in the walled city

road to the old city

It was here we met our agent, Jose of White Light, to do our clearance. The rule on the Colombian cruising permit is that if you stay less than 6 working days you don't need to purchase one. With the Christmas and New Year holidays, a little massaging by the agent, and a departure date of 1 January on paper we were going to be in Cartagena for 5 working days. No need for a cruising permit, no need to pay $200. Our agent charged $100 which was more than the expected $85, but he saved us $200. Jose speaks good English. He did what he said he would. Was punctual and efficient and we have no complaints.

It was a busy first day in Cartagena. We hit the shore running. With only ten days to enjoy the city and celebrate Christmas and New Year there was no time to lose.

After four hours sleep, meeting with the agent and catching up with Manuela and Ian from Mr X we headed in to the old city with them.

Cartagena old town is beautiful, better than last time. What were neglected buildings on the road in to the city have been renovated and turned in to bijoux hotels and smart little restaurants. However, the pet shop we delighted in last time is still here, still open for business and still has cute little puppies in the window.

The Christmas lights are spectacular with every building, road, tree strung with decorations. The theme this year is butterflies. We spent the afternoon wandering the little streets, popping in to a tapas bar for a late lunch and large glass of chilled sangria. But then I ran out of energy and had to go home to catch up on sleep. Tomorrow we'll be back.