6 January East Holandes

The Holandes may be the prettiest islands in the San Blas. They have (small) white sand beaches backed by coconut trees, clear water, good anchorages and friendly locals. The local Congresso man collects $10 anchoring fee which is valid for one month and covers all the Holandes and issues an official receipt.

Banedup island

We took the dinghy up to Barbecue island where we once played boules. Nowadays it is set up for visitors with a family living on the island, a permanent barbecue, seats, a Portaloo and molas for sale. They also charge $3 a person to step on this tiny island.

In contrast to this the island of Tiadup has three families who live there. They welcomed us ashore, allowed us to walk around and take photographs before sitting down and having a chat in broken English and my bad Spanish. One lady gave us sweet bananas and coconut as a gift.

Banedup seen from Tiadup

Lisa and husband

Me with guide Susan

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traditional mola maker

E Holandes is a busy anchorage which means it is worthwhile for the ulus to visit us to sell their wares. We had our first two spiny lobsters. They don't have large claws like a Maine lobster has. The going price is $4 per pound or whatever you feel it is worth to you. I declined molas having bought one nine years ago and it is still in the cupboard never having come out, never having been turned into a cushion cover or wall hanging. I didn't turn away the vegetable boat. Here, the supermarket comes to you loaded with potatoes, onions carrots, aubergine, oranges, melons, bread, beer, wine, eggs and many other items of produce.

supplies from Edwin

meeting of traditional and the new