The
reef pass into Cayo Rosario is as charted although the one remaining
green and red don't seem to be just where Navionics indicate. Still
we saw no less than 6m going in, no coral heads and no anxious
moments. To reach the anchorage we did have to pass over a bank of
2.7m which looked like small rocks and this sand to reach a wide
swathe of deeper water with sand bottom closer to the shore of Cayo
Rosario.
We
found good holding in 6.8m, sand at 21.37.53N 81.56.36W. This is
close to Cayo Rosario and the mangroves. We didn't see a beach or a
reason to take the dinghy here, but a mile across the channel is the
ranger station at Cayo Cantiles.
lobsters galore |
Within
an hour of anchoring a fishing boat approached offering lobsters.
What would they like in return? The answer came back “coffee,
tomatoes, garlic and condiments please”. One of the dozen men on
board spoke good English and he was the negotiator. “How many
lobster do you want?” “Can you spare 8 or 10?” “No problem.”
I gave them a packet of Columbian coffee, a small jar of
mayonnaise and a couple of tins of tomatoes. Our supplies of fresh
tomatoes and garlic had long gone and in return we were given twelve
tails and a large read snapper for supper. We were very happy and
from their smiles they were too. All three ate a hearty seafood
supper that night. How many cats get lobster for dinner?
On
our second day here we took the dink across the way to say hello to
the park ranger on Cayo Cantiles. There were three men on duty when
we arrived. They had been on the island for 15 days and had another
15 days before swapping with the next crew.
feeding the crocodile |
hand reared fish eagle |
Cantiles
is a breeding habitat for Vietnamese monkeys. They 52 of them, but
they are elusive and all we saw were tails disappearing into the
trees. I'm not sure why Cayo Cantiles was chosen, or when the
monkeys were brought here. The rangers keep an eye on them and the
other wildlife on the island like a young jutias (a large native
rodent) which was in an enclosure while she recovered from an injury
to her front paw. We also met a sea eagle that had been hand reared
and the ranger took us to see a resident crocodile living in a muddy
pond behind the station. With calling and the offer of a dead fish
it came out of the mangroves to be hand fed. This was a young one
too, about 1.2m long.
with the rangers at Cayo Cantiles |
With
all these animals the most dangerous bit of our visit was walking
over the razor sharp uplifted coral. Hard soled walking boots would
have been a better option than sandals.
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