What we'd seen of Russell last night encouraged us to go back for more when the shops were open. I'd been reading our guide book so wanted to go back and find the bullet holes in the church, a reminder of the battle between the Moari's and the ruling British, the museum and the historic houses.
The art gallery next to the museum had a good exhibition of Maori inspired wood carvings and a 30 minute loop video showing the history of settlement of the Bay of Islands and then the work of Park Rangers caring for the National Parks around the country. Did you know 40% of the NZ land mass is given over to protected national parks? We liked the kiwi episode of the video. I'd always thought of them as quail size. They're more like small, hairy turkeys, but prettier than a turkey with great long beaks and claws. They nest in burrows (like hobbits) and are nocturnal. And I didn't know either the hen has a higher, squeakier call than the male. Note to self to lie awake at night deciding whether I can hear a male of female Kiwi calling.
We emerged from the gallery with our minds broadened. Nothing else for it, David headed to the hardware shop to peruse tools and I disappeared into an art gallery to covet exquisite glassware that I can neither afford or practically keep on a boat. How good that looking and admiring is free. At the same time David was desperately looking for something we needed to buy. He couldn't find anything either!
Our consolation was finding the bakery and their delicious meat pies made with flaky pastry. Pies are almost the national dish of NZ. At best they are an art, as an essential they are an everyday lunch. Beef, beef cheese, chicken, smoked fish. We ate our beef pies in the shade of a big old tree watching the ferry boats from Paihia across the water arriving and departing and with poor, starving seagulls waiting for a dropped crumb.
A 10 minute amble and we were back at the yacht club and then spent a lazy afternoon lying in the sun and reading.
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