After
sitting very comfortably in Gove harbour for four days while the wind
blew a houlie outside we lifter anchor after breakfast and headed out
with a small flotilla to make passage to the Gulgari Rip, or
Hole-in-the-wall, a narrow pass between two islands of the Wessels
group. There's lots of advice available for the best time enter the
channel because it is narrow (100m) and the current can reach 12
knots with eddies along the side walls. It may be narrow but it is
only short, less than a mile from exit to entry. Following high
water slack the current sets west which is the way we were going. The
skill is to judge your arrival after 40 miles to be at slack, or just
after when the water's going your way.
For
once our speed over ground was too fast and we had to keep reducing
sail to slow down. In the end we were there just at the end of the
east setting flood and went through with reefed twin headsails (wind
directly from behind), motor on and 1 knot of current against us.
The advantage on this is a faster flow of water over the rudder which
gives better steerage than travelling with a body of water. David
was on helm keeping us centre channel. I was by the instruments
relaying depth and to advise if we were heading towards shallower
areas which were likely to have more turbulence.
entering Hole in the Wall |
It
was a wonderful passage both in terms of sailing through and the pass
itself quite magical; a low block of rock to each side of us, soft
sandstone with this one fault which has been eroded over time to
leave a perfect short cut from Gove across to Darwin. If a boat opts
to go around the north island it adds about 35 miles to a trip.
Through
the pass we anchored of Raragala island (love the names) for a quiet
night alongside Beyond, Far Star, Hokule'a, Julianna II, Kite and
Saltheart.
Looking back |
sunrise next morning |
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