23 May Diving Ascension

How to describe the diving around Ascension? Special. Different. Unexpected. Special because the island is remote and difficult to reach. Different because the underwater topography is volcanic lava flows. Unexpected because the visibility is up to 40m in pristine warm water, the sheer number of fish and eels. We have never seen so many varied eels and such concentration where there might be three different species in one rock hole; congers, green, speckled, thick broad bands. As in the anchorage the durgeon fish are everywhere. At times I lost sight of my buddy as we were surrounded by thousands. Lobsters antennae poked from under rocks. The grouper were large and inquisitive. Trevally's equally prolific, but what we didn't see were any sharks. There was one wahoo spotted.

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Two years ago one swimmer and one paddle boarder were bitten by Galapagos sharks in English Bay. The sight of a dozen, up to 3m long, cruising Pier Head was common.

The first attack was on a mother swimming with her husband and children. She was nipped on the foot in shallow water. Her injuries were not so great to be life threatening and I understand she has now fully recovered.

The second victim is not so fortunate. He is currently living in California where he is still recovering and adapting to his injuries. A short time after the first incident the keen boarder from Hawaii was out on his paddle board in English Bay when a Galapagos shark rammed the board from underneath throwing him high in the air. While in the water one animal bit his shoulder. As he tried to pull himself back on to the board another animal took a large chunk out of his buttock and thigh. He did get on to the board and reportedly used the strap as a tourniquet. People on the beach witnessed the attack and were able to bring him ashore and he was given initial treatment at the hospital before being air lifted to America.

The question is why should the sharks be so aggressive and why in a certain bay? Why were there so many Galapagos sharks around the island. We spoke to the head of Marine Research and the doctor who treated them, both keen divers, and they said there is no clear answer. Th e waters are teeming with fish so the animals weren't hungry.

The attacks of 2016 triggered a complete ban on swimming for any Government employee. Swimming is discouraged, but scuba is OK. Fisherman are required to put all their waste in a bin which is then buried on the island.

Another way to describe diving on Ascension is difficult. Although we experienced almost no currents we had brought our own boats and dinghies to access sites on the protected north west shore. Since the islands storage tanks for petrol have been deemed beyond repair there is no petrol on the island for outboard motors, nor for cars. All vehicles are diesel powered. The local BSAC divers can only do shore dives and often there is a strong swell making beach entry a challenge.

We dived with our friend Dick, a mad keen diver with a 64' yacht, White Dragon. With five divers we took it in turn to dive off the yacht. White Dragon is a new boat fitted with the latest underwater sonar and fish finder devices allowing us to see the seabed profile. First group of four drops off the swim platform and 45 minutes later is back on station to pick us up. Then we swap and the drivers become the divers.

A further advantage to have fishing tackle and keen fishermen to keep us supplied with fish suppers.