25 January Cocoa Point & Spanish Point, Barbuda

Barbuda is sister island to Antigua and lies 25 miles north. It has a population of around 1,800 people who live mostly in the one town of Codrington the north end of the island. It has one of the largest frigate bird colonies in the world, miles of pink sand beaches and limited hotel development, all exclusive and expensive.

In September 2017 category 5 hurricane Irma hit and destroyed the island. Gradually structures are being rebuilt, including a controversial new resort, Paradise Found, backed by Robert de Niro and Australian billionaire James Packer on Princess Diana beach, north of Cocoa Point. While we were there we didn't see any new buildings on the plot or workers on site.

Cocoa Point anchorage

We picked Cocoa Point as our destination (17°33.24N 061°46.34W, 6m sand). It had been recommended to us for its clear water, snorkelling on the point, having a couple of beach bars and being somewhere to get away from the crowds. When we arrived there were 15 boats anchored off Ocean Club and a building site. We picked a sandy spot north of the fleet to drop the hook and settled in.

Princess Diana beach

In front of us Princess Diana beach is steep to, long, very long and pink tinged. Landing the dinghy required care to go in on the swell and strength to pull it up above the water line. And then we walked and walked and walked northwards, first passing Enoch's beach bar where we could buy a cold beer or order cooked lobster. Friends told us they pre-ordered and bought 6 good size barbecued lobsters and were charged U$80. Continuing our walk we passed the ruins of a hurricane destroyed resort which is to be Paradise Found as far as the Nobu restaurant, another De Niro venture. We were told he was on island while we were there. What would you say if you met him walking down the beach? Hello? Good morning? Are you looking at me?

leaving only footprints

Nobu on the beach

A long walk back to the dinghy in the late afternoon sun and in time to watch one of the frequent helicopter landings bringing guests for Ocean Club from the airport on Antigua. This is an up market island. I don't think it's on the backpacker trail.

We had a few days chilling at Cocoa Point before moving three miles to the lagoon at Spanish Point on the south end of the island. The chart advised approach only in the middle hours of the day and with sunlight with good reason. Spanish Point sits behind a reef and you have to negotiate a series of bommies, or coral heads, to reach the lagoon. Once inside it is like being in a 4m deep swimming pool. We were boat number 14 inside and dropped the hook at 17°32.68N 061°44.32W and I was able to watch the anchor settle on the sand. Because the available space was limited we put out our minimum scope of two times boat length, ie 32m. Our standard guide for scope is two times boat length plus one and a half times depth. Subject to adjustment as the conditions dictate.

It is our favourite spot on Barbuda. From the boat I swam off and snorkelled around the coral heads – there are plenty of soft corals and indications the hard corals are beginning to re-establish. David donned a scuba tank and cleaned the hull. This was the finest conditions he's had to do this since Bermuda, when we had to do it. Two years and three months since Jackster was last out of the water and the Jotun antifoul is working well, but we hope to be able to haul out soon. Where remains TBA as we continue our research.

While Barbuda is beautiful and removed from the mad world there is internet service if you have Digicel. If you have Flow as we do there is no coverage. One small fly in the pie.

After almost a week hanging out we had a fine, beam reach sail opting to keep Antigua to our right and returning to our current favourite spot, Rickett Harbour on the south side of Green island.